boardlordz

Where the repeats are: the grade each training board actually gets climbed at

Four in ten repeats on the MoonBoard 2016 are logged on a 6B+ (V4). On the Kilter Board Original 12×12 the busiest grade is 7A (V6), and the climbing is spread across the whole scale. The Tension Board 2 is spread wider still. Same angle, same sport, very different boards.

Share of repeats by grade on six boards at 40°

The short version

Board (40°) Problems listed Busiest grade Share of repeats at that grade Share of problems at that grade
MoonBoard 2016 92,296 6B+ / V4 41% 32%
MoonBoard Masters 2017 56,667 6A+ / V3 35% 27%
MoonBoard Masters 2019 47,848 6A+ / V3 34% 21%
MoonBoard 2024 34,161 6B+ / V4 39% 23%
Mini MoonBoard 2020 7,904 6A+ / V3 45% 27%
Kilter Board Original 12×12 106,034 7A / V6 14% 15%
Tension Board 2 23,651 6B / V4 12% 7%

Three things jump out.

MoonBoards are warm-up machines. On every full-size MoonBoard the busiest grade takes a third or more of all repeats, and it is the easiest grade with a real population of problems: 6B+ on the 2016 and 2024 setups, 6A+ on the two Masters setups (which added a hold set of friendlier holds). The curve then falls off a cliff. On the 2016, 6B+ and 6C together take six repeats in ten.

Kilter spreads the load. The Original 12×12 has three separate humps, at 6A, 6B and 7A. Each is the first grade of a band where a climber settles for a while. The 7A peak is the one that surprises people: on a Kilter a 7A is where a strong gym climber lives, and there are nearly 16,000 of them to choose from.

Tension's climbers are the strongest, or the most honest. On the Tension Board 2 the mass sits at 6B, 6C, 7A and 7A+, with 7A and 7A+ together taking a fifth of all repeats. The TB2 also has by far the fewest listed problems of the three families, so its classics carry a bigger share each.

Board by board

MoonBoard 2016

Grade Problems listed Share of problems Share of repeats
6B+ / V4 29,625 32% 41%
6C / V5 12,330 13% 19%
6C+ / V5 13,490 15% 12%
7A / V6 12,197 13% 12%
7A+ / V7 9,185 10% 9%
7B / V8 4,651 5% 4%
7B+ / V8 4,577 5% 1%
7C / V9 3,229 3% 1%

The 2016 is the board with the most history, and its 6B+ problems are where that history lives. An easy problem alone has more repeats than the 200 most-repeated 7B+ problems put together.

MoonBoard 2024

Grade Problems listed Share of problems Share of repeats
6B+ / V4 7,932 23% 39%
6C / V5 5,403 16% 23%
6C+ / V5 4,462 13% 11%
7A / V6 4,598 13% 12%
7A+ / V7 3,569 10% 7%
7B / V8 2,742 8% 4%
7B+ / V8 1,848 5% 2%
7C / V9 1,766 5% 1%
7C+ / V10 1,100 3% 1%

Same shape as the 2016 eight years on. The new hold sets did not move the peak; 6B+ still takes 39% of repeats from 23% of problems.

MoonBoard Masters 2017 and 2019

Grade Problems listed Share of problems Share of repeats
6A+ / V3 15,333 27% 35%
6B / V4 6,838 12% 17%
6B+ / V4 8,033 14% 12%
6C / V5 4,986 9% 14%
6C+ / V5 6,354 11% 8%
7A / V6 5,830 10% 7%
7A+ / V7 3,796 7% 3%
7B / V8 1,875 3% 2%
7B+ / V8 1,707 3% 1%
7C / V9 1,125 2% 1%
Grade Problems listed Share of problems Share of repeats
6A+ / V3 10,020 21% 34%
6B / V4 4,898 10% 18%
6B+ / V4 6,303 13% 13%
6C / V5 4,595 10% 12%
6C+ / V5 5,325 11% 8%
7A / V6 5,731 12% 7%
7A+ / V7 4,206 9% 4%
7B / V8 2,339 5% 2%
7B+ / V8 1,698 4% 1%
7C / V9 1,292 3% 1%

The Masters setups are the only MoonBoards where 6A+ exists in volume, and climbers vote with their hands: a third of every repeat on each board is a 6A+.

Kilter Board Original 12×12

Grade Problems listed Share of problems Share of repeats
4 / V0 1,595 2% 4%
4+ / V0 931 1% 1%
5 / V1 3,557 3% 6%
5+ / V2 3,257 3% 6%
6A / V3 5,745 5% 11%
6A+ / V3 5,552 5% 6%
6B / V4 8,736 8% 12%
6B+ / V4 8,132 8% 5%
6C / V5 11,864 11% 11%
6C+ / V5 9,788 9% 6%
7A / V6 15,958 15% 14%
7A+ / V7 12,794 12% 7%
7B / V8 8,343 8% 7%
7B+ / V8 4,690 4% 2%
7C / V9 3,210 3% 2%
7C+ / V10 1,314 1% 1%

Note the two columns. At 7A the share of repeats (14%) is about the same as the share of problems (15%). At 6A the repeats share is twice the problem share. Kilter's easy problems are few and very well used.

Tension Board 2

Grade Problems listed Share of problems Share of repeats
4 / V0 217 1% 2%
4+ / V0 139 1% 2%
5 / V1 701 3% 7%
5+ / V2 794 3% 10%
6A / V3 1,187 5% 8%
6A+ / V3 998 4% 6%
6B / V4 1,737 7% 12%
6B+ / V4 1,507 6% 5%
6C / V5 2,262 10% 11%
6C+ / V5 1,845 8% 5%
7A / V6 3,565 15% 12%
7A+ / V7 3,353 14% 9%
7B / V8 2,132 9% 6%
7B+ / V8 1,310 6% 1%
7C / V9 1,123 5% 2%
7C+ / V10 500 2% 1%

The flattest curve of the lot. No grade on the TB2 takes more than 13% of repeats.

How to use this

  • If you set on a board, the busiest grade is where a new problem finds the most climbers. It is also where the catalogue is most crowded.
  • If you climb on one, the grade just above your board's peak is where the catalogue thins out and quality problems get easier to find. On a 2016 that is 6C+ and 7A; on a Kilter it is 7A+.
  • If you are switching boards, do not carry your grade across. The Kilter 7A climber and the MoonBoard 6B+ climber are very often the same person on a different day.

Method

Boardlordz lists every public problem on each board at 40°, with the repeat count climbers have logged through the board's own app. For each grade we summed the repeats on that grade's 200 most-repeated problems, which is the view a climber gets when they sort a grade by popularity. Because the long tail of rarely-climbed problems is cut at 200, the shares describe where the climbing happens rather than every ascent ever logged; on grades with fewer than 200 problems the sum is complete.

Grades are the setter's grade on the board's own scale, converted to the Font scale that Boardlordz uses everywhere, with the V-grade in brackets. Only 40° is counted. The Mini MoonBoard 2020 is in the summary table but has too few problems above 6C for a curve worth drawing.

Catalogue as of October 2026. Thank you to Moon Climbing, Kilter Grips and Tension Climbing for building the boards that make this kind of question answerable, and to every setter named in the tables.

Boardlordz is a free app for MoonBoard, Kilter and Tension boards: light up any climb over Bluetooth, log it in one tap, and see which holds you lean on. Get it here.

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